By Nick Elliot
Sometimes, when a star vanishes overnight, people’re too preoccupied with the next shiny big thing to even notice — now that Zac Efron’s dominating the cover of Tiger Beat, are you even the least bit curious what JTT’s up to? You’re similarly unlikely to ask “where’d Perry go?”, thanks to shiny, new Midi.
Yes, Perry’s downtown is gone, replaced by Midi, a super sleek, bi-level Cali brasserie-cum-bar (with grub by an ex-Ponzu exec chef) that’s so dramatically yet seamlessly transformed the space, it’s virtually impossible to remember what was there before without reading this sentence. The leather stool-lined downstairs bar shimmers with built-in bits of iridescence and spies a glassed off, semi-open kitchen; up top, clusters of shiny white two-tops and cushy banquettes’re boxed in by Sutter-facing windows and pink, green, and purple-tinted mirrors that may make you look like Barney, only fatter. Lunchtime grub ranges from delectable sandos (e.g., braised lamb w/ chutney and Fontina) to pan-roasted cod w/ baby leeks and corona beans, while dinner’s highlighted by duck leg confit in ginger-rhubarb verjus, and brown butter lemon sauce-drizzled skate wing, also the little known section of the White House where Rahm Emanuel pops mad ollies.
Washing it down, there’s seven craft beers (Big Bear Stout, Lagunitas Pilsner), 15 wines by the glass, and a full list o’ specialty cocktails, highlighted by the El Tesoro/Clement Creole Shrubb “Midi-Rita”, and the Knob Creek/Turbinado sugar/bitters “Fashionably Old”, which, if you think in any way lends itself to an Efron joke, you don’t know Zac.